Diver Resources
PLEASE NOTE- This page has been written as a light read for both new divers and experienced divers. We take no responsibility for your decision to purchase dive gear. We are all different and dive gear is changing all the time so please choose carefully. The choice is yours!!!!!
Pictures are for illustration only.
This section is designed to help the new diver or the experienced diver who is not entirely sure what to do next after either passing their Open Water or just looking for diving kit. We have listed here all of the popular equipment that is available to you as a diver and also the advantages and disadvantages to this equipment.
We have based these observations on our own experience. We do not run a dive shop or sell kit ourselves, so our comments are not biased in anyway to any particular item.
We feel that diving is a personal sport when it comes to equipment and with all diving items, personal preference is a very important feature. We have used nearly all the dive equipment listed and as you scroll through we will give you an idea as to the equipment available, and whether it will suit you.
If you have any questions, suggestions, or general comments, please use the Contact Us section. All feedback is gratefully received, we would also like to open this invitation to both you the diver as well as equipment manufacturers and dealers.
Equipment is a very personal choice and divers are generally a very opinionated bunch so if you ask 10 different divers which is the best BCD (Buoyancy Compensating Device), you will probably get 10 different answers and every one of them will tell you that their BCD is the best.
So where do you start and what should you consider for your first purchase?
Mask, snorkel and fins are normally the first purchases made when starting out.
Mask
Your choice of mask will be one of the most important choices you make. The most important thing to consider is fit, the most expensive mask is not always the best mask.
A mask that fits properly will enhance your joy of diving, a poor fitting mask will be uncomfortable and will probably fill with water.
If you wear glasses, you may wish to consider a mask with optical lenses (there are many available).
Try on as many different masks as possible (also try it with a regulator in your mouth). Your local dive store should have a wide range to suit all shapes of face.
Don´t forget to rub white toothpaste on the inside of the lenses of a new mask to remove the protective film used during assembly - NB: Masks with glass lenses only
Snorkel
There are a variety of snorkels to choose from, a simple snorkel with a purge valve at the bottom should suffice for most people.
Do consider a snorkel with a removable mouthpiece that can be replaced if damaged.
Fins
These fall into two categories, full foot or open heel. Generally full foot fins are suitable for pool or warm water diving.
Open heel fins are usually more secure but you will normally have to consider buying booties as well to keep your feet warm and provide protection when walking over rocks.
Consider where you will be using them: lighter fins maybe more suitable if you are planning on using them on holiday.
Ideally try a few different types to see what works best for you. Your local dive shop may offer a try before you buy service.
Dive Suit
Dive suits perform a number of functions; they should stop you getting cold and can also provide protection from stings and abrasions.
There are a number of different types for different conditions.
Shorties (3mm, 5mm, 7mm etc.)
Suitable for very warm water diving or can be combined with another suit for cold water diving.
Full Wet Suit (3mm, 5mm, 7mm etc.)
Depending on the thickness, suitable for warm or cool water diving. 3mm for very warm water, 5mm is a good all round suit and can be used across a wide temperature range (18c to 27c). A 7mm full suit can be combined with a 7mm shortie for cold water diving (12c to 18c), this is a very common combination for UK diving during the warmer months.
Semi Dry
Basically similar to a wetsuit but with better seals on the wrists, neck and ankles. Similar temperature range to the full wetsuit, but maybe more suitable for longer immersion or a more extended diving season in UK waters (March – October) depending on your tolerance to cold. A 14mm combination will usually be suitable for temperatures down to 8c.
Drysuit
Two basic types, membrane and neoprene. If you are serious about cold water diving, then a drysuit should be given serious consideration. A good drysuit/undersuit can be used for year round diving in the coldest of conditions, from 0c water up to 18c (or even above!). The main differences between neoprene and membrane suits are as follows:
- Neoprene –
- Membrane –
Closer fitting, more insulating so less can be worn underneath, can be more restrictive on movement. Normally requires more weight to sink initially (However the suit may compress at depth and this will cause a loss of insulation and buoyancy.)
Baggier, more control over insulation (A variety of different undersuits can be worn underneath depending on the water temperature). Does not lose insulation or buoyancy characteristics at depth. Also dries quicker.
There are a number of additional considerations when choosing a suitable dive suit. Fit is very important on a wetsuit or semidry. Additional training should be considered if buying a drysuit. The PADI drysuit specialty is recommended and teaches the skills and techniques required to use a drysuit as well as going into much more detail on the different types of suits, undersuits, inflation valves and dump valves.
If trying drysuits on, make sure you have a full range of movements. Try some stretching exercises, hands above the head, touching toes etc. Help and assistance is always available if needed.
Booties, gloves and a hood should also be considered. A hood alone can make the difference between a pleasant dive and a cold uncomfortable dive.
Regulators / Submersible Pressure Gauge / Depth Gauge
Try to buy cold water rated regulators (1st and 2nd stage) for UK diving. Cold water rated regulators will work just as well in warm water, warm water rated regulators may experience problems in cold water.
There are many types of regulator and you should seek further advice from a knowledgeable source when making your decision. Some points to consider:
A depth gauge and SPG (Submersible pressure gauge) function can be performed by a dive computer and if you are considering buying a dive computer you may not require these items.
Make sure as a minimum you have a 1st stage, 2nd stage, Octopus (alternate second stage) and some method of monitoring your depth and remaining air.
Try to make sure you have sufficient ports on the 1st stage to meet all of your requirements, usually 4 low pressure and 2 high pressure ports will meet most peoples requirements.
Also consider any other additional hoses you may need such as low-pressure inflator hoses for BCD or Drysuit (These are normally included with the BCD or drysuit).
1st stages are available in balanced and un-balanced formats and piston or diaphragm. Balanced 1st stages provide a more consistent breathe. Un-balanced 1st stages do not breath as well at depth. Whether it uses a piston or diaphragm is not too important as both provide the same results using different mechanics.
A Balanced 1st stage is recommended and is worth paying the extra few pounds for.
A-Clamp 1st Stage
This style was invented first and clamps onto the cylinder valve using a facing ‘O’ ring. A-Clamp 1st stages are generally easier and quicker to fit to cylinders. 232 bar DIN cylinder valves can be converter by the use of a simple screw in plug to allow the use of A-Clamp 1st stages.
Very commonly used worldwide with an excellent safety record.
Not compatible with 300 bar cylinders or valves.
DIN 1st Stage
DIN 1st stages are by some considered slightly safer than A-Clamp due to a captive ‘O’ ring and are very well suited for enclosed environments such as caves and wrecks where they may suffer impact. Available in 2 types, 232bar (5 threads) and 300bar (7 threads).
300bar DIN 1st stages can be used on 232bar cylinders. 232bar DIN 1st stages cannot be used on 300 bar cylinders.
If you plan on taking DIN regulators abroad it is wise to buy a DIN to A-Clamp converter to ensure your regulators will work on cylinders that do not have a DIN convertible valve.
1st Stage Converters
(A) Screw in plug to convert DIN cylinder Valve to A-Clamp.
(B) DIN to A-Clamp converter.
Most 1st stages are available in A-Clamp or DIN fitting. DIN versions are normally the same price as A-Clamp and your local dive shop should be able to order a DIN version for you if required.
Ensure you purchase the specific type you require as converting later on can cost up to £50 depending on the manufacturer.
Bouyancy Compensating Device (BCD)
There are a number of variations on this theme including, traditional jacket style and wing (or a combination of the two!)
A wing / harness combination
This can be quite tricky to setup initially and there are many different things to consider, such as what cylinders it will be used with, what type of backplate, what type of harness, what type of wing etc.
For more information on wings/harness setups, discuss with your instructor to see whether it really is a suitable route to take and use the resources provided later on for more information.
Jacket Style
This is the more traditional style of BCD and is probably the style used during training.
When trying a jacket on make sure you try it while wearing either the dive suit you will be wearing when diving or a similar suit. Try to access the pockets. Inflate the jacket fully. Make sure it provides sufficient lift for the purpose intended.
As a general rule of thumb, consider 40lb of lift the minimum for drysuit or thick wetsuit diving. Also look at the manufacturing of the jackets and the materials used.
A lightweight jacket designed for travel may not last as long as a hardwearing heavyweight jacket and will probably not provide as much lift.
There are a couple of other points worth considering with some of the new ideas that have appeared on some jackets over the last couple of years:
- Flight control and Airtrim system –
- Mares HUB systems –
Weight Systems
There are three main methods of carrying weight.
Weight Belt
Either using lead blocks or shot pouches. Shot pouches are generally more comfortable and mold to fit the body better.
Harness Weight Belt
More secure, better distribution of weight, possibility of ditching half of your weight rather than the whole lot in one go. Can be more comfortable than weight belts with lots of weight.
Integrated Weights
Some BCD´s have integrated weight options. There are advantages and disadvantages of this system. Usually they are not suited for large amounts of weight and it can make the BCD very heavy to put on or lift up when diving from a rib.
Integrated weights within a BCD are probably more suited for holiday diving where less weight is required.
Cylinders
Cylinders are available in steel or aluminum and of varying capacities. Normally a 10 litre or 12 litre is the usual choice.
Steel cylinders are more common in the UK and some capacities of cylinders such as 12 litre are available as standard height or dumpy.
Your choice of cylinder will depend on your air consumption, type of diving and personal preference.
Cylinders are subject to strict testing requirements and will not be filled if out of test.
Pay special attention to test dates if buying second hand cylinders.
Redundant Air Supplies
More and more divers are now using redundant air supplies. This does not mean having twin 10 litre cylinders strapped to your back. There are other cheaper solutions that can fulfill the requirements of redundancy for a lower cost.
A 3 litre pony cylinder will provide enough air for shallow to moderate depths to allow you to reach the surface and probably do a safety stop (Air consumption dependant).
A basic setup would consist of 3 litre pony, 1st stage and one 2nd stage. A pressure gauge is not required but the pressure in the pony should be checked with your main regs/SPG prior to the dive. Mounting the pony can be achieved using either a pony pouch/clamp arrangement on the main cylinder or side slinging, using a couple of bolt snaps, a bit of rope and a big jubilee clip.
Dive Computer
Many and varied, but a couple of considerations. Try to consider a computer that is nitrox capable.
It is normally not that much more expensive but could be costly if you do not consider it and later on decide you are interested in the benefits of using nitrox (If you are interested in Nitrox, why not consider enrolling on a PADI nitrox specialty course).
Make sure it is easy to use and understand. Different manufacturers incorporate different features such as user set conservativeness levels and different algorithms.
User replaceable batteries are nice to have but if the battery life is very good then not so important (For example: - My computer, has done 200 + dives and is still showing 88% battery life).
Ask different peoples‘ opinions to get some ideas. Computers can be wrist mounted or combined on the end of a hose with other gauges.
NB: Always read the instructions fully and remember the computer is a tool to assist you in making decisions.
The algorithms used in computers are theoretical models, as each of us is different and has different tolerances.
Never dive to the limits of the computer, always factor in some additional safety and never share a computer.
Other Equipment
Compass
A wrist mounted compass works very well or even one mounted with your gauges. Try and get one that can be tilted a reasonable amount before it locks up. It maybe worth considering further instruction on the use of compasses to get the best out of them. For example a PADI advanced diver course which consists of five open water dives in new environments.
Knife
Bigger is not necessarily better! Knives strapped to legs can sometimes be an entanglement hazard and not as easy to get to as one attached to your BCD. Small, serrated without a pointed end. Also consider trauma shears or a line cutter as a backup in your pocket - Very cheap £4 and will cut fishing line much easier and quicker than a knife. We recommend trying different positions to find the right one for you.
Torch
Small and bright for looking under rocks and bringing colours out. Larger and brighter for night dives. A torch will bring the true colours out on a dive.
Delayed Surface Marker Buoy (DSMB) & Reel
A delayed surface marker buoy is very useful for drift dives and where boat traffic is evident. Instruction should be received in the proper use. Although expensive, the new DSMB with inflation bottles are much easier to use and gaining much popularity.
Some Final Advice
You do not have to buy all your kit at once. You can hire kit from £30 per day to keep you diving whilst you choose your kit. It also lets you try different types of kit. Many shops have a selection of kit from stock available for hire to allow you to try before you buy.
Although online shopping is excellent if you know what you are looking for it does not give you the ability to try the goods out before hand or have the backup of a local dive shop to deal with any problems.
Do barter when buying equipment, ask for their best price, try to get discount if buying a few items at once and finally make sure you do your homework. Read reviews ask other divers their opinions and do your own research, just because your local dive shop tells you that xyz computer is the best it may not be so. Maybe that just happens to be the computer that they have the biggest profit margin on.
Also don´t rush into a purchase, if they give you a good price, write it down, check out the competition and then if you can get it cheaper see if they will price match. Please remember that local dive shops may not be able to compete with online shopping sites but they do offer advice and after sales support. You may pay a slight premium for this but you should not end up paying way over the odds.
Don´t forget to budget for servicing of vital equipment such as regulators and ensure you can find a local dealer who can service your equipment for you.
Finally, ensure you have a spares kit (O rings, fin straps, mask straps etc.)